Fabric Friday -- Satin

It seems odd

for it to be the Christmas season and

about the only thing on my

mind right now is

a wedding dress.

I have to keep reminding myself

that I still have a major

holiday event to

plan and prepare for

but this dress is

what is taking

up most of my brain processes these days.

But can you blame me?  

I am so EXCITED

to do this dress!  

It's the sewing challenge

I have been craving

and waiting for

for a long time.

So, 

amid all the 

long lines,

decorating, 

baking, 

wrapping, 

plotting

and

planning of the season,

I'm studying up

on all the finer points

of gown design and construction.

I thought I would share with you

a bit of knowledge about satin and some of the
beautiful dresses
available

 today

for Fabric Friday this week.  

Great Things About Satin 

*Satin can be made from silk, rayon, acetate, polyester or even cotton. 

*It is the staple for the wedding gown industry. 

*It is considered one of the most luxurious fabrics in the world,

especially if made with silk.

*Satin is used in apparel, draperies, lingerie, linings, upholstery

and even shoes.

*Satin derives its shine or luster from the way it is woven.  

*Light reflects off of the warp yarns (lengthwise yarns)

that float over the weft yarns (horizontal yarns).

*It's soft. 

*It has a special luster. 

*It's elegant. 

*It's perfect for a princess! 

Types of Satin 

*Crepeback Satin - Highly twisted yarns are used as the weft or filling yarns while low-twisted yarns are used in the warp.  This produces a very soft, drapy, clingy version with a high amount of shine depending on fiber content. 

The back of the fabric will remind you of the texture of crepe paper.

This is commonly used in evening wear and lingerie.

*Antique Satin -  Uses slub yarn (thick & thin, a natural spun look) in the weft giving the fabric a look of fabric that is hand produced. 

Most common in wedding gowns, costumes or interior fabrics. 

*Duchesse Satin - High yarn count of a finer yarn both in warp and weft.  Crisp, heavier body than most silks.  Luster dependent on fiber content but usually a lower luster. 

Most common bridal satin available on the market today.

*Slipper Satin -  Heavy, stiff satin used in the shoe industry.  Typically, this is not available in your local fabric store.  

Sewing with Satin 

Laying out Pattern & Cutting 

1.  Scissors and pins should be very sharp.  Dull equipment will snag satin.  Once it's snagged, there's no fixing the problem. 

2.  All satin has a nap, or a directional shade difference, caused by the weave.  All pattern pieces need to be layed out and cut according to the nap instruction of the pattern.  Don't ignore this.  

3.  Pin fabric to an old sheet or sheets of tissue paper to keep it from shifting during the cutting process.  No shifting means accurate cutting and accurate seaming.  

4.  Speaking of pins, make sure they are nice and sharp AND pin only in the seam allowances of the pattern.  Pins break the "floating" fibers and once broken and cause pin marks that just do not go away.  Try "silk" pins. 

That being said, pins are so important in helping control satin as it has a mind of its own.  Use pins to keep control,

just be mindful where you put them.

5.  Avoid "ripping" out seams.  Make all the proper fit adjustments prior to sewing and sew carefully.  Too much ripping out leaves unsightly marks. Again, these just can't be fixed.   

Stitching

1.  Use a new sewing machine needle.  With a large project like a wedding dress, I try and have half a dozen or more of the size I'm using on hand and change every so often, especially if I've hit a pin or sewn for many hours with the same needle.  

2.  Make sure the needle size and thread size are compatible with the fabric.  I tend to use a finer needle, 7 or a 9, with a lingerie thread

for most of my gown sewing. 

3.  For finer satins, use a base of tissue paper under your two layers of fabric that you are sewing to keep it from drawing down into the bobbin area and cazing a nasty jam.  Been there, done that.  Sigh.  This also can help to keep the layers from slipping around on the machine bed. 

4.  Try a walking foot, if you have one, when sewing.  This will keep the layers together and not slipping against one another.  A real lifesaver. 

Pressing

1.  Keep in mind the fiber content on this one.  Polester will take a bit more heat than silk.  Always test iron temperatures on scrap pieces prior to pressing.  Start low and increase temp as needed.  

2.  Use a PRESSING motion (up and down) not a side-to-side ironing motion.  You can easily over press satin as well as iron in creases or even flatten the weave and dull the shine.  Go easy.  Press just enough to acheive flat seams, crisp point, etc., but don't over do.  

3.  Never use steam.  Water stains satin.  Fabric ruined.  Enough said.  

4.  Use a pressing cloth.  Even tissue paper can be used in a pinch on low heat.  

5.  Prior to pressing, make sure iron is free of dirt, grim, scum and is smooth.  Same with the ironing board.  A new ironing board cover is a good investment at the start of a big project. 

Sew Happy!  

  

Fiber Friday -- Wool

I really am learning to love natural fibers and their qualities. One fiber I have yet to gain real experience with is wool. So, I thought that, with a little research, we might learn a few things together.

Fun Facts about Wool

• There are more than a billion sheep in the world today yielding nearly 6 billion pounds of wool each year.
• Australia ranks first in the world’s wool production. The US ranks about 15th.
• The average once-a-year sheering of one sheep produces about 8-1/2 pounds of wool.
• The US only produces about 40% of the wool used by manufacturers in this country and import the rest.
• Wool yarn is very resilient and the fibers stretch making it resistant to wrinkles. 
• Wool has excellent insulation properties and is warm in the winter and cool in the summer because of its ability to absorb moisture. Also, no static cling with wool.
• Wool is very versatile and can be made into very lightweight knits or bulking tweeds and heavy over coating.
• Recent technology has given us wool that is moth proof, shrink proof and machine washable. Check those labels, however! Don’ assume all wool is like this.
• Most wools need to be washed by hand or dry cleaned.
• Wool is popular for interior design fabrics because it is naturally flame retardant, again, because of its ability to absorb moisture.

Caring for Wool Fabrics

• Wool is easy to care for. Because of its moisture content, it does not attract static electricity. Static attracts dirt.
• Make sure and check manufacturer’s recommendations for dry cleaning or hand washing.
• Most wools need only be cleaned 1-2 times a year depending on use, of course.
• Dirt only sits on the surface of wool fibers and can often be simply brushed off.
• Treat stains immediately using a clean cloth to lift out of the stain as soon as possible. Rubbing the stain will drive it deeper into the fibers making removal more difficult. Stubborn stains should be handled by a dry cleaning specialist. 
• If wool gets wet, hang it up out of direct sunlight to dry. Direct sunlight can damage wool.
• Wool articles should be stored clean and in airtight bags or containers.

Sew Happy,

Fiber Friday -- Denim

"Forever in Blue Jeans" by Maria Dryfhout

at Fine Art America

Aw…denim. Reliable, sturdy, comfortable, wear-it-anywhere, do-anything-in-it denim. What would our lives be without it? Good question, huh? I really don’t want to know, do you? Let’s not go there and instead focus on its presence and uses.

Long known for its strength and durability,

denim began as a humble work fabric for gold miners in California

as well as railroad workers and sailors of all nationalities.

Anywhere hard labor was a factor,

the need for strong, durable fabrics was a must.

Denim fit the bill.

Now, denim is a fashion staple, a wardrobe must have.

Mostly found in the way of pants or “jeans” as they are commonly referred to,

denim finds its way into

jackets,

skirts,

dresses,

shirts,

coats,

hats,

 bags,

belts,

formal wear

and it is even found in interior design.

It is dressed up,

 dressed down

and goes with absolutely anything and any color.

Name a color that just doesn’t work with denim, I dare ya!

Here are some facts on denim I found in my search to know this fabric and its uses a little better.

* 40% of the world’s textile trade is cotton which is what denim is mostly made of.
* You can get 225 pairs of jeans out of 1 bale of cotton.
* Denium comes from the French name “serge de Nimes” and shortened to denim.
* Levi Strauss developed “jeans” using denim to fill the need for strong, durable clothes for miners during the California Gold Rush. These were made further desireable for long wear due to the copper rivets found at the pocket stress points. About that same time, railroad workers wore a similar fabric called hickory cloth that was denim with black and white contrasting threads creating a stripe. It was called hickory cloth as it was thought to be “as tough as hickory wood.” Just as a side note, Levi Strauss’ name was originally Loeb Strauss and had migrated from Bavaria. After he obtained his citizenship and went to San Francisco to court the gold miners of the Great Gold Rush with his denim copper-riveted pants, he changed his name to Levi. Interesting reading on Levi and the history of the Levi Strauss company can be found at the Levi Strauss website at http://www.levistrauss.com/Downloads/History-Denim.pdf
* The term “dry denim” refers to denim that has not been washed after the dying process. I think it safe to say that all denim used to be dry denim. Remember those good old days when new jeans meant lots of washing, drying, pounding, bleaching or any other method one could come up with to remove that extra dye and make them soft and comfortable? Fortunately, today much denim is prewashed to gain that desired softness and color that many folks demand in their jeans. The old days of “breaking in the jeans” are replaced with off-the-rack style and comfort. Jeans even come with holes to give it that worn look. That, I should say as a veteran of patching the knees of many pairs of jeans, is something that I continue to shake my head at. But, what fashion demands someone will make eventually do. Beats taking them out and shooting B-Bs at your jeans for the desired effect (yes, I really knew someone who did that regularly).
* Most denim is made of a twill weave as the two examples show below. Look closely at any denim and you will see similar weaves.


* Denim will last for years with the proper care. Though denim can stand up to hot water washings and high heat drying, if you want your denim to last, use care in laundering them. Wash in cold water with a non-bleach detergent and line dry. Of course, most denim washes and wears very nicely without too much fuss. Even shrinkage is at a minimum now and stay true to size even after many, many washes.
* Denim fabric is mostly cotton but can be blended with other fibers such as polyester and, of course, Spandex, the later of which is a really blessing to those of us who need a little give in critical areas of fit. Polyester can aid in giving denim less shrinkage and less wrinkling. However, in my experience, it takes away some of the softness and absorbance which are a couple of reasons why I like denim clothing. But, that’s a personal matter, I suppose.

So, here’s a challenge for you. Watch for denim in your everyday life. Pay attention to who is wearing it, what it is made up into, the different colors of denim, etc. You will be amazed as to its variety.

Sew Happy,
Suzie



.

Fiber Friday -- Bamboo

There has been a real surge of bamboo in the clothing/textile industry of late. I, for one, knew little about bamboo and its properties. I have seen it in the fabric stores and even was tempted to purchase some yarn because it is SO soft. I could easily imagine something soft and cozy knit up in this yarn. Bamboo has intrigued me enough to do a little research on it and I came up with some interesting facts.

*Bamboo is classified as a grass. It is the fastest growing grass on the planet growing an average of a yard a day and once harvested, grows back very quickly. It grows naturally without the benefit of fertilizers or pesticide making it a very eco-friendly plant to grow.

*However, while the bamboo itself is eco-friendly, the method of processing isn’t necessarily so. Harsh chemicals can be used in its processing. Once harvested, the fiber is “cooked” using chemicals such as sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide into a viscose (golden-brown solution) and then restructured into a yarn suitable for weaving/knitting. While there are processes being established to lessen the use of chemicals in the manufacturing of bamboo that will hopefully replace this method, it is still used and is considered cost effective in providing bamboo products to the consumer. Hence, bamboo textiles really are not all that eco-friendly.

*The alternative method of processing is done mechanically much in the same way linen fibers are harvested from flax, removing the fibers from the plant, breaking down the enzymes that hold the fibers together and then combing out the fibers for spinning. Even though this is eco-friendly, it is labor intensive and, therefore, much more expensive to produce meaning a much higher priced item for the consumer which, from what I gather, is the reason the chemical method is preferred.

*Bamboo is 100% biodegradable even with chemical processing. In fact, it often improves the soil quality.

*Fibers are light and strong, take dye easily and have a natural UV protection.

*Bamboo has anti-fungal, anti-bacterial properties and is considered hypoallergenic and a good fabric for those with sensitive skin.

*Bamboo is highly absorbent – 3-4 times more wicking ability than cotton.

*Easy to launder and maintain.

Sew Happy,
Suzie

Fiber Friday -- Silk

Cool picture, huh? That is a silk cocoon sitting on a bed of silk threads. Looks like hair doesn’t it. See how fine and shiney it is? Let’s find out some more about this beautiful fiber.

I have not really had any experience with silk finding it rather cost prohibitive for me. However, I have owned silk clothing. In fact, I have a beautiful skirt made of silk haning in my closet now (a fabulous buy at $4.00 on a sale rack). I love its softness and drape, but really hate that it is dry clean only. Silk is a beautiful fabric found in may weights and weaves. So, here is a bit about silk and how to sew it. I may just save up and give it a try one of these days.

Fun Facts

The offical name for silk production is sericulture.

This fiber was invented in China many centuries ago. In fact, it was kept a secret from the world for hundreds of years even to the point of exicuting anyone accused of smuggling it or its processing procedure out of the country.

Only Chinese rulers and high ranking officials were allowed to wear silk at one time.

China produces aproximately half of all the silk made in the world.

The silk worm come from the Bombyx moth that is blind and cannot fly.

A moth will lay aproximately 500 eggs over a period of 4-6 days.

It takes 30,000 worms to produce just 12 pounds of raw silk.

The average silk worm will eat 2,000 pounds of chopped mulberry leaves and is fed every half hour around the clock.

Mulberry-fed worms produce a silk that is more uniform in color, size, shape and much smoother and finer than the silk produced by wild worms.

Silk worms are pampered quite a bit by maintaining a controlled environment. Temperatures are kept at 65 degrees and gradually warmed to 77 degrees. They are sheilded from strong light, loud noises and strong odors such as human sweat.

It takes 3-4 days for a worm to spin its cocoon.

The silk fiber is lightweight, resilient and extremely strong. In fact, it is much stronger than a steel filament of the same size.

So, there you go. Is it any wonder that stuff costs big buck?? Now, on to sewing.

Sewing with Silk

Silk often shifts, snags and puckers when stitched. Here are some helps for handling and sewing silk.

For lightweight silks, you can preshrink them by hand washing them and hanging them to dry. After sewing, you can continue to hand wash. Shampoo is noted to be the best hand washing soap for silk. If you want to color set you silk, use shampoo designed for color treated hair. Cool, huh?

Use very small, fine sewing needles in your machine. Make sure the needle is very sharp.

The same with pins, use only very fine, sharp pins. Buy new ones if you are in doubt about the condition of your pins.

Interface with a sew in interfacing, preferably silk organza (hand wash that too). Heavier silks may or may not use iron-on interfacing. Test it out first before hand.

Cutting can be difficult as it is slippery and tends to shift quite a bit. Lay a layer of tissue paper down on cutting surface, lay down your fabric and then place your pattern pinning it in place. Cut through all layers. This will keep the fabric together and increase the accuracy of each cut.

Sew Happy!

Suzie

Fiber Friday -- Linen

This Friday it's Linen.  I love, love, love linen! 

This is a wonderful fiber.

Soft, clean, durable.

The more you wear it, the more softer it becomes.

Sounds like you favorite jeans, right?

Well, linen is a natural fabric that behaves like cotton in many respects.

It also absorbs about 20% of its weight in moisture and has an ability to release the moisture into the air making the fabric feel dry.

What a great fabric for this Arizona heat!

Like cotton, it is very durable.

Even the finest of linen yarns must be durable to endure being woven on high-speed looms used today.

Well, here are some interesting facts about linen.

*Most of the world’s flax (the plant that linen comes from) is grown in Western Europe.

*The flax plant grows to 20-40 inches in height.

*Flax is harvested by pulling the plant out of the ground rather than cutting of the stalk.

This is to preserve the plant for its entire use as flax is used for more than just linen production.

*Flax is processed into linen by first spreading out the plants in a large, open field to lay in the sun and collect rain and dew from the atmosphere.

This process is called retting.

The moisture breaks down the pectin in the stem that holds the fibers together,

hence, making it easier to separate the fibers for spinning.

It is then stripped and debris is combed out of the fibers.

 Fibers are then separated into lengths and graded with the longest

being the finest and strongest, the shorter graded lower.

It is then spun into lengths of fiber used in the weaving process. After weaving, it is bleached (cleansed with chemicals) for dyeing/printed. It is at this point that it may be given a finish to reduce wrinkling.

*Linen wrinkles easily.

In fact, it can be almost impossible to get wrinkles entirely out of the fabric.

To press in creases or set pleats, use a solution of 50/50 water and white vinegar and press.

Let set untouched for a few hours until completely dry.

*Pretreat linens in the same manner you plan on caring for your garment after sewing.

*Linen also has a tendency to shrink,

so it is recommended to pretreat it 3 times before cutting.

This will soften up the linen and you will know exactly how

the fabric will perform in your garment. If you want to maintain crispness,

have your linen fabric dry cleaned

making sure to always dry clean your garment.

*Linen is an easy fabric to cut, layout and sew,

much like cotton and cotton/poly blends.

Use a 100% cotton or poly/cotton thread.

 Interfacing may be woven or fusible

as a matter of preference and project suitability.

*Seams should be finished to prevent fraying.

Use a zigzag, hand overcast, seam binding finish as desired.

Linen clothing is usually loose in fit and simple in design making for

really nice casual wear with the design intended to take full advantage of its wrinkles.

With that in mind, I think I’ll keep an eye out for a piece of linen to work on soon.

Sew Happy,
Suzie

Fabric Friday -- Cotton

I am dedicating each Friday to posting interesting facts about the fibers that make up today’s fabrics. These are the fibers that we sew with, so it seems reasonable to learn about them and how to best handle and care for them. Let's start off with...

COTTON

Interesting Facts:

• Know as “white gold”
• In the 1700s it was illegal in England to import and manufacture cotton into fabric in order to protect their sheep and wool industry and ultimately to keep it away from the American Colonies.
• An experienced laborer could pick about 450 lbs of cotton by hand in one day. 
• With the advent of the cotton picker in the 1930s by the Rust Brothers from Mississippi, cotton could be picked at a rate of 8000 lbs a day. 
• The US produces 3/4 of the world’s cotton.   
• More clothing is made from cotton than any other fiber in the world. 
• Annually textile mills produce over 8 billion square yards of woven cotton fabric and 3 billion square yards of knit fabric.  
• It absorbs 27 times its weight in moisture.
• It is durable and strong, comfortable to wear and easy to launder making it a popular clothing choice. 
• Cotton clothing washed in cold water keep their colors longer. 
• Resists abrasion, pilling and moths. 
• Woven cotton fabric is an excellent choice for the beginning seamstress because it is so easy to cut and sew. 
• For more information on Cotton check out the National Cotton Council of America’s website at http://www.cotton.org/

Sew Happy,

Suzie