Gotta a Hole in One?

First of all,

let me apologize

to the

person

who commented on my other posting of this tutorial.

I have had to go in

and redo the whole thing

because blogger

is acting stupid

and wouldn't

let me do any edits.

I loved your comment

and feel bad for having to delete it.

I realized that

jeans with holes in them

are a bit of a fashion

statement

these days.

However,

I was raised in a time

when one ironed their

blue jeans.

So, jeans with holes in them

kind of

go against my

grain.

(no pun intended)

I raised 4 boys.

Hand-me-downs were

just a way of life

when it came to blue jeans.

So patches were

common.

It was a part of

clothing

my family

without going broke.

Here's how I have always done it.

Try not to let your holes get too big.

However, I have patched worse and they've turned out okay.

The Wedding Dress Sleeves -- How To Make Petal Sleeve Pattern

I'm doing pretty well

on this wedding dress.

I'm right on schedule

of where I want to be.

There is just over 2 weeks left

until the wedding,

and I feel that I can

actually get this done afterall!

I'm came to a stand still

waiting for a fitting

and then placement of the lace,

so I decided to jump ahead a bit

and go ahead and get the

sleeve pattern drawn

and the sleeves ready for

the lace that will go on them.

The bride

wants petal sleeves.

This is one style

of petal sleeves to give you an idea

of what we are talking about here.

The only difference between the

sleeve that I am actually making

is that the petal "lap"

will be towards the back

of the sleeve

instead of the front of the sleeve

as shown here.

The Wedding Dress -- Sewing Day #1

I actually started the dress today.

Sewing it together, I mean.

Well, the lining at any rate.
I should be getting this started
after all
the wedding is
only
1 month from today!!!

The lining is 100% polyester,

very soft and drapy.

A perfect lining fabric.

Light as a feather.

Great to wear.

Not so great to sew with.

It slips, snags, shifts, puckers easily.

Generally a pain in the you-know-what.

But all is not lost.

It can be handled beautifully with soft, smooth seams

that hang just right.

Here are a few tips to help anyone working with this type of fabric.

As with any large project, save yourself some major irritation

and wind several bobbins of the fashion color, in this case white.

It

NEVER

happens at the end

of the

seam.

Never.

If your machine has a walking foot attachment,

use it.

"Load the elephant"

as my former clothing & textile professor

used to say.

The idea with a walking foot is to feed

both layers of fabric

through the stitching process

at the same time

minimizing puckering.

In lightweight fabrics,

puckering is a major problem.

When you have puckering,

the seams aren't flat

and they will hang funny.

Make sure your needle is of the right

size and weight

for the fabric.

I started with a size 10

but I immediately saw that it was

snaging the fabric.

So, I switched to a size 9 and

had a much better result.

Tissue paper.

If you don't know the

wonders of

tissue paper,

then you, my dears, have

truly been missing out.

With this lightweight, soft fabric,

I found the combo of a walking foot

and using tissue paper as a third layer

while stitching

helps to produce

perfect stitches with not a pucker in sight.

This is a sample stitch I did with the tissue paper underneath.

Even along the selvage, I got a very smooth seam.

This will go a long way in the overall look of the dress.

Just cut or tear several 2" strips of tissue paper.

While pinning the seams together, just include

the tissue paper

and sew right through all the layers.

Tear the paper away afterwards.

Try it.

Keep things clean!

I am especially mindful of this with a white fabric and

with this dress being such an important project.

1)  Clean your machine well but be careful with oiling.  Sew with scrap fabric until you are absolutely sure that no residual oil is dripping anywhere.

2)  Keep you hands clean.  Wash, wash, wash.  Stay away from lotions and creams, too.  They can leave oils on the fabrics.

3) Wipe down the table, machine, chair, etc., before each sewing session.

4)  Food, drinks and ink pens have NO place around fabrics.

5)  Have a lint roller handly.  It's so nice to take care of the stray threads, lint, dog hair, etc.  Just a quick swipe and their gone.

After a long day of sewing,

I now have a lining

ready for pin fitting,

seam finishing and pressing.

Coming soon:

Seam finishing

Pressing

Boning application

Bra cup application

Sew Happy,

I'm sharing my wedding dress experience
with some of the linky parties
found on my linky page.

Taking That First Cut -- The Wedding Dress Saga

You know how it feels.

Taking that first
cut

into

beautiful,

to-die-for,

expensive fabric

meant for a

beautiful,

to-die-for,

once-in-a-lifetime

dress.

One slip,

one miscut

can

bring a

grown

woman

to tears.

Lots of tears.

And then there would

be the bride

to

deal

with.

and then her

mother.

But I did it today.

or at least,

I cut out the lining.

I always work with the lining first,

adding the boning

and

doing the fine tuning

of the fit before I

tackle the

expensive

satin and lace.

But it's still enough to drive

a girl to chocolate.

Sew Happy,

I'm sharing my wedding dress experience with some of

the linky parties listed on my

Linky Page.

Fabric Friday -- Satin

It seems odd

for it to be the Christmas season and

about the only thing on my

mind right now is

a wedding dress.

I have to keep reminding myself

that I still have a major

holiday event to

plan and prepare for

but this dress is

what is taking

up most of my brain processes these days.

But can you blame me?  

I am so EXCITED

to do this dress!  

It's the sewing challenge

I have been craving

and waiting for

for a long time.

So, 

amid all the 

long lines,

decorating, 

baking, 

wrapping, 

plotting

and

planning of the season,

I'm studying up

on all the finer points

of gown design and construction.

I thought I would share with you

a bit of knowledge about satin and some of the
beautiful dresses
available

 today

for Fabric Friday this week.  

Great Things About Satin 

*Satin can be made from silk, rayon, acetate, polyester or even cotton. 

*It is the staple for the wedding gown industry. 

*It is considered one of the most luxurious fabrics in the world,

especially if made with silk.

*Satin is used in apparel, draperies, lingerie, linings, upholstery

and even shoes.

*Satin derives its shine or luster from the way it is woven.  

*Light reflects off of the warp yarns (lengthwise yarns)

that float over the weft yarns (horizontal yarns).

*It's soft. 

*It has a special luster. 

*It's elegant. 

*It's perfect for a princess! 

Types of Satin 

*Crepeback Satin - Highly twisted yarns are used as the weft or filling yarns while low-twisted yarns are used in the warp.  This produces a very soft, drapy, clingy version with a high amount of shine depending on fiber content. 

The back of the fabric will remind you of the texture of crepe paper.

This is commonly used in evening wear and lingerie.

*Antique Satin -  Uses slub yarn (thick & thin, a natural spun look) in the weft giving the fabric a look of fabric that is hand produced. 

Most common in wedding gowns, costumes or interior fabrics. 

*Duchesse Satin - High yarn count of a finer yarn both in warp and weft.  Crisp, heavier body than most silks.  Luster dependent on fiber content but usually a lower luster. 

Most common bridal satin available on the market today.

*Slipper Satin -  Heavy, stiff satin used in the shoe industry.  Typically, this is not available in your local fabric store.  

Sewing with Satin 

Laying out Pattern & Cutting 

1.  Scissors and pins should be very sharp.  Dull equipment will snag satin.  Once it's snagged, there's no fixing the problem. 

2.  All satin has a nap, or a directional shade difference, caused by the weave.  All pattern pieces need to be layed out and cut according to the nap instruction of the pattern.  Don't ignore this.  

3.  Pin fabric to an old sheet or sheets of tissue paper to keep it from shifting during the cutting process.  No shifting means accurate cutting and accurate seaming.  

4.  Speaking of pins, make sure they are nice and sharp AND pin only in the seam allowances of the pattern.  Pins break the "floating" fibers and once broken and cause pin marks that just do not go away.  Try "silk" pins. 

That being said, pins are so important in helping control satin as it has a mind of its own.  Use pins to keep control,

just be mindful where you put them.

5.  Avoid "ripping" out seams.  Make all the proper fit adjustments prior to sewing and sew carefully.  Too much ripping out leaves unsightly marks. Again, these just can't be fixed.   

Stitching

1.  Use a new sewing machine needle.  With a large project like a wedding dress, I try and have half a dozen or more of the size I'm using on hand and change every so often, especially if I've hit a pin or sewn for many hours with the same needle.  

2.  Make sure the needle size and thread size are compatible with the fabric.  I tend to use a finer needle, 7 or a 9, with a lingerie thread

for most of my gown sewing. 

3.  For finer satins, use a base of tissue paper under your two layers of fabric that you are sewing to keep it from drawing down into the bobbin area and cazing a nasty jam.  Been there, done that.  Sigh.  This also can help to keep the layers from slipping around on the machine bed. 

4.  Try a walking foot, if you have one, when sewing.  This will keep the layers together and not slipping against one another.  A real lifesaver. 

Pressing

1.  Keep in mind the fiber content on this one.  Polester will take a bit more heat than silk.  Always test iron temperatures on scrap pieces prior to pressing.  Start low and increase temp as needed.  

2.  Use a PRESSING motion (up and down) not a side-to-side ironing motion.  You can easily over press satin as well as iron in creases or even flatten the weave and dull the shine.  Go easy.  Press just enough to acheive flat seams, crisp point, etc., but don't over do.  

3.  Never use steam.  Water stains satin.  Fabric ruined.  Enough said.  

4.  Use a pressing cloth.  Even tissue paper can be used in a pinch on low heat.  

5.  Prior to pressing, make sure iron is free of dirt, grim, scum and is smooth.  Same with the ironing board.  A new ironing board cover is a good investment at the start of a big project. 

Sew Happy!  

  

The Wedding Dress - The Saga Begins

As I mentioned in another post,

my son, Sam, and his girlfriend, Bobbie,

have decided to tie the knot for eternity.

She has done me the honor of

turning a pile of white satin and lace

into

a

fairytale

creation

for her special day.

No small task.

She has chosen this as the basis of your dream dress.



It is beautiful, to say the least.

The style and cut are perfect for her.

She will look like a princess, for sure.

Now the journey begins.

I'd like to share this journey if I may.

Perhaps along the way

I can share what I learn

and

perhaps

inspire.

The first dilemma with a dress like this is

the pattern.

It doesn't exist.

At all.

No where.

So, that leaves me with a couple of options.

1. Take two or more patterns (bodice, sleeve and skirt) and combine them.

I've tried this method before.  This has worked okay for me in the past.

or

2.  Draft the pattern from scratch.

Not for the faint hearted and certainly a challenge.

I'm flip-flopping between the two methods and am leaning towards

drafting it from scratch.

Why?

I'm a glutton for punishment?

Crazy?

Have nothing else to do with my life?

No.
(okay, crazy probably apples here)

Intuitively, as a seamstress,

I'm thinking this is the best method for this dress
and this girl.

It's not that I don't have any experience with this method, mind you.

I was a clothing and textile major in college
and have some pattern drafting experience.

But it has been years.

I've researched a few sites online for helps.

I finally ordered a book at Amazon to guide me.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0932538002/ref=oss_product

It's due to arrive this Friday.

Darn, if I'm not excited!

Sew Happy,

Journal/Notebook Tutorial - My Version

I know, I know, I know.

There are tons of tutorials

about journal/notebook covers out there.

I've seen them.

I'm going to add one more

to the mix.

My version.

Not that my way

is the only way.

Heavens no.

This is just my technique.

Good or bad.

It works for me.

I can put one of these babies together in about a half an hour.

Yes.

Half an hour.

In this season of

make sure everyone gets a gift,

make it inexpensive,

make it easy,

make it cute,

but most of all

make it

fast,

I felt that this little journal/notebook cover

fit the bill.

So, I'm sharing.

Apologies in advance for

the photography

(I'm just not an expert).

Tutorials are still a bit of an

unknown territory

for me.

Questions?

Leave me a comment and e-mail.

I'll try to clear up any questions quickly.

First, you will need:

1 composition book

23" x 12" of fashion fabric

20" x 6.5" of embellishment fabric

coordinating thread

pins

scissors

seam gauge or ruler

sewing machine

 Make sure the fabric is prewashed and pressed nicely.

Fold the fashion fabric in half (short ends together)

and press a nice crisp crease.

Open the fabric and lay the notebook spine

along that crease.

 With a marking tool,

(I broke a sewing commandment and just used a regular old pencil),

make a mark along the long edge of the book.

This should be on the INSIDE of the fabric.

 Fold right sides together along this line and press a nice crease.

Doing this will help us to know the edge of the book

giving us the book's boundries as we are doing our embellishments.

Trust me, this will save you tons of aggrivation

as you are decorating the journal.

 Do this on both ends of the fabric.

These are also the pockets for the notebook's flaps to slide into.

 Now for the embellishment.

Let me just say that I have my own style with all of these covers

and

this is the point where you decide how and with what to

embellish your cover.

Go wild

and

do whatever

you want to now.

The fabric is flat and easy to work with.

The creases that you have ironed into the fabric

show you exactly where the edge of the book is

and where the spine will lay.

So, have some fun with it and make it special.

But, here's what I do.

 I take the 20" x 6.5" fabric and press it really nice.

I then fold it in half lengthwise and press again.

 I then open up the fabric and fold one lengthwise edge

up to the crease and press.

 I do this on both sides and

 come up with something that looks like this.

I then turn up the one of the short ends about 3/4"

and press it down nice and flat.

  Opening that fold up, I take the corner and fold

it on the bias matching the fold lines.

I use the bias line on my ironing board for a guide.

Press.

 I then refold the lengthwise side back along its crease like so.

 I refold the other fold along its

crease and press.

I repeat this process on the other corner.

 I now have two nice sharp corners.

I lay this strip of fabric right along the center crease

about 3-3/12" from the top edge.

Pin in place.

 I then begin my pleats.

No rules on the pleats.

I just fold it.

This can be off a bit crooked or nice and straight.

Depends totally on my mood.

If I've made tons of these in one day,

they may be just pretty crooked.

That's style, isn't it?

 I'm a real pin freak and pin, pin, pin.

I like control over my fabric and

not allow it to have

control over me.

I stop the folds just before the crease that marks the edge of the book.

I just lay out the fabric and pin it down to be sew flat.

This wraps the embellishment fabric

into the inside of the book.

A nice touch, I think.

But you could stop it at the crease, especially if you were short on fabric.

Just be sure beforehand to fold up both short ends

and make nice sharp corners at all four corners insead of just the two.

 All pinned down, it will look something like the picture below.

 When I begin stitching,

I start out using my pressure foot edge as a guide,

but if my pleat edges aren't straight, I have to eye-ball it to

keep the stitch line straight.

Using a ruler and fabric marker ahead of time to mark a stitch line

is really a good idea here.

 When I get to the edge of the book (center crease)

I do a pivet turn and stitch rather close to the edge,

pivot again and continue sewing down the other side.

 My design looks something like this after stitching.

I will then trim off any excess fabric like I show below.

 At the point, we are ready to do a little sewing

and turn this fabric into a notebook cover.

When you have done your decorating,

you will want to finish off the raw edges of the

cover by either using a serger, as I have done,

or use a simple zig-zag stitch.

Go around all four sides.

 Lay out your cover flat and fold up the flaps that will

become the pockets for the notebook,

right sides together.

This is the fold you ironed in earlier

along the marked line.

 Now, take the notebook

and lay the page edge of the book

right along that fold.

Center the book carefully.

 Take your fabric marker of choice and trace the top and bottom edge

of the notebook right onto the fabric.

This will be the line you will stitch along to

form the top and bottom of the cover's pockets.

Do this on both sides of the book cover.

You will have four stitch lines in total, one at each corner of the cover.

 Pin and stitch along all four line markings.

 Turn the corners right side out.

Get those corners nice and sharp.

At this point,

I always try the cover on my notebook.

I can make whatever adjustments I need

if the cover is too tight or to loose.

After you have made any adjustments

and made sure the fit is right,

press the cover nice and smooth.

Pay attention to the corners and the

top and bottom edges.

Pressing well will make a world of difference

in the look of the finished cover.

 After you have pressed the cover, slip it on the notebook.

Now, go out there and make some fabulous gifts!

Sew Happy,

I attended these linky parties with this tutorial! 
Check them out!